Chiang Mai, Thailand

November 24 - 27, 2012

After catching a 2 hour flight north - we arrived in Chiang Mai.  Immediately when we stepped out of the plane we noticed cooler air and lower humidity.  As we waited for our bags, there was a wall of pamphlets advertising everything to do in Chiang Mai from spa's to Tiger Kingdom to white water rafting -- and if you know me you can believe I picked up about 75% of the brochures even though I had most of our trip planned out already.  Next to the 'To Do' wall - was a taxi service counter - where a flat rate for a cab is paid to take you from CNX (Chiang Mai Airport) to your hotel in town.  The rate was 120baht - about 4US dollars.  After purchasing the cab ride and grabbing our bags we headed to taxi station outside - there we gave them our voucher and they put us in a cab.  On the way to the hotel we were talking with the cab driver and asking basic questions about Chiang Mai.  He said for 400baht (approximately 13.50 US Dollars) we could rent him for the rest of the day.  A friend of mine who had previously been to Chiang Mai mentioned it is common that people hire taxi's to take them around for full or half days.  So we decided to go ahead and do this since it was about 1pm.  After deciding to go through with this - our cab driver quickly turned around and took us to our first requested destination - a local tailor shop.  David was eager to have a suit made in Thailand and it just so happened the cab driver's sister was a seamstress at a tailor shop outside of town.  At the shop they showed us every style of suit they could make and all the different fabrics they had.  David picked out everything, they took his measurements and then he bargained the price with them.

Our next stop was Tiger Kingdom.  I was not sure if I would like this place - given my stance on animal cruelty - but how many times in my life would I be able to say I pet a tiger.  Some people say the tigers are drugged which is why they are always sleeping, however, Tiger Kingdom claims they do not drug them but they have 'tamed' the tigers.  Upon your arrival to the attraction there is a ticket counter - you have 4 choices:
1.  A ticket to walk around the park 
2.  A ticket to see the small tigers (4 - 8 months) - 620 baht (approx. 20 US Dollars)
3.  A ticket to see the medium tigers (9 - 12 months) - 420 baht (approx. 15 US Dollars)
4.  A ticket to see the big cats (13 - 30 months) - 420 baht (approx. 15 US Dollars)
They also offer group packages to see all three.  Although it would be a really cool picture to have of me riding a big tiger -- I was not up for the risk.  Just my luck the tiger would wake up and attack me! You would be reading about 'The American girl who died in Chiang Mai after being attacked by a Tiger' instead of a blog about my trip to Chiang Mai.  So small tigers it was!  After receiving the ticket - you are given a group number and are walked into the park with a tour guide.  The guide will take you to the location of your tiger cage.  There you must wash your hands and put on flipflops provided by Tiger Kingdom.  There are about 5 - 6 small tigers in the cage - some running around and some sleeping.  In the cage there are about 4 trainers who will accompany you at all times and take pictures with your camera.  There was a consistent line of people waiting to go into the cage with the small tigers - our wait time was about 10 mins.  While we were waiting two girls from Europe came out of the cage - and one had a huge bite mark on her leg.  EEK.  It was turning black and blue already - and although there was no blood - there was definitely an imprint of the tigers teeth (Not exactly what I wanted to see prior to going in next).  When we went in the trainer took us to the sleeping tiger and he staged some pictures for us - including us laying on the tigers stomach and we got to pet the tiger -- SO SOFT <3!  Then we went over to see the smallest tiger - who was in a separate cage - since he was too young to mingle with the other tigers yet.  There we posed for some pictures and went back into the regular cage.  We wanted a picture with the active tiger - however - he was misbehaving (running around and being aggressive hence the bite on the girls leg) and the trainers did not want guests around him.  After about 15 mins, our time was up, the trainer asked if we were all set and escorted us out.  We walked around the rest of the park looking at the big cats and the medium tigers.  After about 30 minutes - we left.  I would recommend going to Tiger Kingdom - it is something you can't do anywhere else in the world.  The animals seem to be treated as humanely as possible for being caged.  Do not expect to go into Tiger Kingdom and learn a lot about the cats - there are no signs, information about the tigers, or educational guides but it was still fun.

Entrance to Tiger Kingdom 

David and baby kitty.

Baby Love.

Shannon and baby tiger. 

Big cat. 

Once leaving Tiger Kingdom, our driver for the day offered to take us to the Long Neck Karen Village since it was close by and a lot of tourist like to visit this location.  Little did we know the entrance fee was 500baht (about 17 US Dollars).  We decided this was not something we wanted to pay for without having a tour guide to take us around and provide us with detailed information.  So we headed back and told the taxi driver it wasn't for us.  He said back near Tiger Kingdom was a place called the Monkey Centre and asked if we wanted to go.  Not having time to do research on the fly about this - we agreed to go here and paid the 200baht (~7 US Dollars) entrance fee.  We walked in and they told us to run to the bleachers (located in their stadium) because the show was about to start.  We took a seat with the other 6 people already there.  Out came a trainer with a monkey on a chain doing tricks such as playing basketball, climbing trees to get fake coconuts, riding a tricycle etc.  It was extremely sad.  The monkeys were wearing diapers and never had the chain around their neck removed.  They asked for a volunteer from the audience -- and no one volunteered so they called me out there to sit on a chair.  They then tied my hands together with a rope and the monkey, Sam, came over to save me by untying it.  The show was about 20 minutes.  After the show we walked over the area where the other monkeys were - they were all tied up and had loss hair around their neck where the metal ring rests.  They were running around in the little space they had (notice the length of the chains in the picture) -- and it was heartbreaking!  There was a baby monkey on a chain for you to pet by the exit - and he was so active and lively.  He want to jump around and climb on your arms - but he couldn't because the chain he was attached too was too short.  This place is the worst - DO NOT VISIT!

Shannon with the monkey. 

Poor baby monkey locked up. 

Monkeys locked up :(

Cutest monkey - but so sad!

After the depressing Monkey Centre - we asked the driver to take us to our hotel. We were staying at the Shangri-La Chiang Mai.  Upon our arrival the bell boys grabbed our suitcases and we paid the cab driver for the afternoon.  We checked in and headed up to the room.  The room was spacious - and had an amazing bath tub (I wish I brought some bath bombs!).  We waited in the room for the seamstress from the tailor shop to come by and take a second round of measures for David's suit.  They come to your hotel and do 2 rounds - one is for your measurements then the next day they bring by the suit to make sure it fits and mark any final touches to it.

In front of the Shangri-La Chiang Mai. 

In the lobby of the Shangri-La.

Pool at the Shangri-La. 

View of Chiang Mai from the Shangri-La. 

Prior to going to Chiang Mai - I made reservations via email for activities I found on TripAdvisor that I wanted to do.  Initially I was planning on waiting till we arrived in Chiang Mai to make the reservations - however - 3 week prior to our trip I contacted Patara Elephant Camp to see if we could sign up to be Elephant Trainers for the day and told them my availability.  To my surprise - they were booked up for over half of November and they did not have any room for us.  This lead to me having a mini freak out and I decided to book the two main activities I wanted to do ASAP.  I contacted the Shangri-La and asked them for recommendations of things to do in Chiang Mai and any tours they offered - their response time was quick and they provided me with all the information I could ask for.  I booked 'Elephant Trainer for a Day' with the Thai Elephant Home - a humane Elephant Home which was highly rated on TripAdvisor and recommended by the Shangri-La.  I also booked the second highest rated activity in Chiang Mai on TripAdvisor - Siam Rice Thai Cookery School.

At the Shangri-La, I went to the concierge to show them the itinerary I had already planned out - and I told them the other activities I wanted to do like seeing the Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, Zip Lining, White Water Rafting, Doi Suthep Mountain etc.  Knowing I couldn't do it all they helped me arrange my days to get the max amount of activities in and offered multiple options of the same activity to see what fit in my price range.  This included arranging special transportation with the tour companies and calling the cooking school to change our reservations from Sunday to Monday.  Throughout our stay the concierge went above and beyond for us and I would highly recommend staying at the Shangri-La.

After spending a good 45mins to an hour with the concierge, we decided to head out to the night market.  It was about 630pm and the night market vendors were just setting up.  There was everything from tee shirts to scarves to wooden elephants.  Surprisingly unlike Phuket, there was no one hassling you to buy - if you said you were not interested they would leave you alone.  It made for a pleasant shopping experience.  The night market goes on for as far as the eye can see and you can turn off into different sections.  In the main market section - there are food stalls and restaurants which are permanent.  We decide to eat at one of the restaurants which had fresh seafood on display and was really busy with locals.  The restaurant was Ping Ping and we had stir fry crab with chili paste and basil and fried rice.  As most of you know I am a huge fan of crab - and I have to say the sauce with the crab might have to be one of the best I have ever had.  It was similar to the chili crab found in Singapore.  The sauce of the crab dish went perfectly with the fried rice.  Once we completed our delish meal we walked around the market, David got a coconut for 30baht (1US dollar) and we found a place to get Thai massage for 150baht per hour (approx. 5 US dollars).

Night market. 

Night Market.

Ping Ping Restaurant. 

Fried Rice. 

Stir Fry Crab with Chili Paste and Basil.

Aftermath of our meal. 

The next day was our first full day in Chiang Mai and the day we went to the Thai Elephant Home.  As mentioned prior I had made the reservation before the start of our trip online - I sent the Thai Elephant Home an email confirmed the date and paid via paypal once our spots were reserved   They came to pick us up at our hotel around 7:30am.  We picked up about 6 other people and drove about 45mins outside of Chiang Mai into the jungle.  Once we were at the Thai Elephant Home we changed into our new t-shirts/pants and learned about Thailand, the elephants and what that they are doing to help the environment.  We then gave thanks to the Elephant Gods and gave the gift of bananas to the elephants.  They were all lined up in a row with their trainer waiting for us.  The trainers then thought us the traditional mahout elephant commands, such as:
- Map Lung - Sit
- How - Stop
- Pai - Go
During this time we all practiced getting on the elephant and riding around the camp.  This was very intimidating because the elephants are such large powerful creatures - but once I got the hang of it I was good to go.  Next we trekked across the river and through the jungle on the elephant.  My elephant was 'Baboo.'  As we went on this trek we each had a trainer following on foot us to make sure we were safe - which was nice and reassuring.  They each carry a hook which I was initially not fond of - I did not want it to be used in a cruel way towards the elephants - however - my trainer did not use it once on the elephant.  Joe, the owner of the elephant camp, told us it is used as a scare tactic or for the vistor's safety.  After about an hour and a half ride into the jungle we stopped for an authentic thai noodles - pad thai!  We ate and then played in the famous Black Mud Spa with the elephants - putting mud on our faces and on the elephant.  To finish the day we then rode the muddy elephants into the Mae Taeng River to bathe them and play around.  On the way back a local was selling fresh sugar cane - an elephants favorite treat - for 30baht (1USD).  We bought some sugar cane and fed it to the elephants while riding.  I wanted to keep some of the sugar cane for the end when we got back to camp but the surprisingly the elephant could smell the sugar cane sticks I was saving in my bag and kept blowing air and snot into my face in hopes to get the sugar cane - of course I caved.  We returned to camp about 5:30pm where we showered and then had an herbal spa treatment for our hands and feet.  Throughout the day the Thai Elephant Camp provided their own photographer and put together a dvd of pictures which were dropped off at our hotel the next day.  Although they aren't the best pictures ever - and I still recommend you bring your own camera - it was nice to get a memento of your time at the Thai Elephant Home.

As mentioned previously of the reasons I picked the Thai Elephant Home was because of the way they treat the elephants - these elephants have been rescued from unjust working conditions and are ridden bareback which is healthier for the animals.  The Thai Elephant Home also spends a lot of time and money reforesting the local jungle, buying local, and creating jobs for local villagers - which has been recognized by the Queen who visited the Thai Elephant Home.

Learning about Thailand and the elephants. 

Shannon found a kitty!

Giving thanks. 

Feeding the elephants.  

Learning to get on the elephants. 

Riding through the river. 

The most amazing view. 

Lunch location. 

Pad Thai. 

Mud Bath. 

Elephant Ride. 

Elephant Ride. 

Bath time!

Blowing snot waiting for sugar cane.  :)

Once our activity was complete we headed back into Chiang Mai, got dropped off at the hotel, showered, and headed out to the Chiang Mai Sunday Night Market Walking Street.  We took a tut tut to the gates of old Chiang Mai for about 100baht (3USD) from the Shangri-La.  The market is filled with original art, trinkets, crafts, clothing  food, local music, etc.  The market is massive - everywhere you turn is another street filled with vendors and more people.  Although the crowds were overwhelming, it was worth it.  The prices of the items were cheaper than Railay and Phuket, and better quality, however, it was difficult to stop and shop as the crowds pushed by.  The food here was amazing and fresh.  We picked out different stalls to try and had everything from gyoza/pot-stickers to waffles.  Below are images from the night market and some of the food we had.

Chiang Mai Sunday Night Walking Street Market.

Traditional Thai Music. 

Kanom Krok - Thai Pancake made from coconut milk. 

Mango sticky rice. 

Mochi Ice Cream.

Treats.

Waffles. 

Garlic bread on a stick. 

Potstickers/Gyoza. 

On our second full day in Chiang Mai - we had two activities planned with help from the Shangri-La staff.  The first one was the Doi Suthep Temple and the Hmong Village Tour from 8:30am - 12pm.  The tour group picked us up late around 9am and after picking up two more groups, we headed out to the Hmong Village.  This village was semi a tourist trap and semi interesting to see how these people lived.  The locals of the village each had stalls selling similar items that you could find at the night market but for a higher price.  We walked around through some of their homes and into a beautiful flower garden.  From there we headed back to the Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Temple - the most famous temple in northern Thailand.  The temple was amazing it was like nothing I had ever seen before.  Since our tour was 500baht and came with an English tour guide - we assumed we would learn about the temple, culture and meaning of what we looking at, however, unfortunately our tour guide just dropped us off and gave us a meeting location to meet back up at.  It was extremely disappointing.  If this was the case - we would have just taking a taxi ourselves and not paid for the tour.  The tour was very unorganized and we did not get dropped back off at our hotel until around 1:20pm.  The tour company was JJ Travel - link here - I do NOT recommend them.

Hmong Village. 

Garden of Hmong Village. 

Entrance to the Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Temple

Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Temple

Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Temple

Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Temple 

Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Temple

The next tour we had arranged was ziplining with Jungle Flight.  Initially I was interested in the Flight of the Gibbon but was surprised at the price tag that went with it - so the hotel showed us the Jungle Flight options A and B which had a lower prices.  We selected package B which cost 2200baht per person (74US dollars).  The hotel arranged for us to be the last pick of the day and they arrived around 1:30pm in the lobby to take us about 1 hour outside of the city and into the jungle.  It was nice because they broke us down into intimate group sizes to go ziplining.  Our group had 3 people - including myself.  After getting in our harness - we were off to do package B: 24 platforms, 16 ziplines, 2 sky-bridges,and a spiral staircase.  When we completed the zipline - we headed back to camp and were offered a traditional Thai meal while we waited for the other groups to come back and then headed into town.  That night after a quick shower, we meet up with Billy and Christine and headed to the night market near our hotel.  We walked around and decided to eat at the food stalls in the center of the market.  I had amazing crab fried rice!

Spiral staircase.

Beautiful view. 

Zipline. 

On our last day we packed up our stuff and headed downstairs around 7:45am to check out and get ready for our pick up from the Siam Rice Thai Cookery School.  They came on time in a red pick up truck - we, along with all our suitcases and 10 other people packed into the back bed of the truck and headed off to the market.  At the market the leader took us around showing different curries, fish paste and vegetables we would be using in our meal that day.  We were then given 15mins to walk around the market.  After a 7min ride - we met our instructor Nancy and picked out the dishes we were going to make.  Since we were doing the half day - we picked 1 item from the soup category (Hot and Sour Soup/Chicken Coconut Soup/Hot and Creamy Soup/Spicy Soup with Sweet Basil), 1 item from the noodle category (Fried Noodle Thai Style (Pad Thai)/Fried Glass Noodle with Vegetables/Fried Big Noodles/Drunken Noodles) and 1 item from the curry category (Khao Soy/Green Curry/Red Curry/Pumpkin Curry/Massaman Curry/Jungle Curry/Yellow Curry/Red Curry/Panang Curry).  David and I decided to make different things so we could try more.  David choose the Spicy Soup with Sweet Basil, Drunken Noodles, and Jungle Curry.  I decided to make the Hot and Creamy Soup, Fried Noodle Thai Style (Pad Thai), and Khao Soy.  Nancy then led us over to the table with the fresh veggies and gave us instructions on how cut the ingredients for our noodle dish.  Once that was complete we headed over to the outdoor kitchen setup and she gave us step by step instructions.  It was very well organized and although some people were making different dishes there was no lag time and all our meals were completed at the same time.  We then took our noodle dishes back to the table to eat.  The drunken noodle dish was amazing - great spicy and flavor.  My pad thai dish was also very good - but not as unique.

Veggies at the market. 

At the market. 

Prepping the veggies. 

Outside kitchen. 

David making drunken noodles. 

Drunken Noodles. 

Pad Thai. 

Our next dish was to make the curry paste via a mortar and pestle.  This was really cool to make!  Then we moved on to making it into curry.  Khao Soy is a yellow based curry with veggies and noodles which I was making and David's jungle curry was the spiciest available.  The Khao Soy was the most amazing dish for me the whole day.  I highly recommend this dish and cant wait to recreate it at home!

Fresh ingredients. 

Making curry paste. 

Curry paste. 

Making Khao Soy. 

Khao Soy - YUM!

Jungle Curry. 

Curry dishes.

Lastly we made the soups - similar to the previous two dishes - we cut our veggies and got our ingredients together and headed back to the kitchen to make the soup.  My favorite was the Spicy Soup with Sweet Basil.

Spicy Soup with Sweet Basil.

Hot and Creamy Soup.

After eating - we were given the recipes of all the dishes and we graduated from the Siam Rice Thai Cookery School.  Everyone who worked at the school went above and beyond to meet our expectations -- they even drove us to the airport instead of having us call a cab!  

Graduation.

This was the perfect way to end our trip in Chiang Mai.

Highlights of my trip:
- Thai Elephant Home
- Chiang Mai Sunday Night Market Walking Street
- Doi Suthep Temple
- Siam Rice Thai Cookery School

On my to do list next time:
- Adventures: Mountain Biking, Hiking, Canyoning, White Water Rafting
- Elephant Nature Park
- Doi Inthanon National Park
- Loi Krathong - Lantern festival